Chicago eats

This food article by the New York Times' R.W. Apple brought back pleasant memories of the decade I lived in Chicago and the junk food I ate there. When I return to the Windy City--and that's never as often as I'd like--the chow I nostalgically seek out usually is just the sort of inexpensive, heart-attack-inducing, often superbly crafted food about which Apple rhapsodizes.

I confess I never really developed a taste for hot dogs, Chicago-condimented or otherwise, but I do love me a good Polish, and I can confirm that the Polish sausage Apple ate at the Maxwell St. stand is indeed the best of its kind. There actually are two Polish stands on the corner he's talking about, one next door to the other. Near as I can tell, they're equally good. For a little variety, may I suggest the pork chop sandwich.

Apple also is right to single out Al's for terrific Italian beef in the city, though as a former South Sider I disdain the River North outlet he writes about in favor of the Little Italy location on Taylor St., especially because after you've devoured a greasy beef you can cleanse your palate with a refreshing Italian ice from the stand across the street.

But even better Italian beefs are to be had at Johnny's in Melrose Park, a suburb just west of Chicago. The line moves fast, so be prepared to place your order like this: "Beef juicy hot." (Translated: "One Italian beef sandwich, my good man, au jus and with spicy giardiniera [a relish of carrots, peppers, onions, celery, etc.].")